Natural Hair Wars: What IS Natural and What Is NOT?

So, I was reading a post the other day on a hair forum and someone posted about how someone stated that people who put styling products on their hair are not natural. Hold up! What? The poster went on to say that her friend was saying that people who naturally have curls shouldn't have to put products in them to define them. She went on to share that her friend felt that natural is a big, dry afro with no product. Hmmm... Interesting. After reading this story I went on to think about what exactly do we mean by "natural"?

Before I talk about what I define as natural, I must digress back to my relaxer days, so we can compare. Every 6-8 weeks I would be patting my hair waiting for the time when I could get to the hair salon and get my touch up. I could feel my roots, which were puffing up and coarse unlike the rest of my relaxed hair which was straight. The two textures would battle it out before I could get my touch up and straighten my kinks into submission. I could smell the pungent odor of the relaxer. When my stylist parted my hair I could feel the "slap, slap, slap" of the brush as she applied the relaxer to my new growth. After so many minutes I could feel the burn and sometimes fire on my scalp before it had to be rinsed off then followed up with a neutralizing shampoo. This was a cycle that I followed since middle school up until 4 yrs ago when I decided to let my hair grow naturally.

So, now that brings me back to the definition of natural. In the natural hair community we have two schools of thought. There is the school of thought that believes natural is to wear the hair void of any relaxers. This means simply that whether you straighten, henna, or color your hair it is still natural because you're not using a relaxer. Then, there is the other school of thought that believes to alter the hair in ANY way using heat, color, or henna, etc then you aren't natural. Well, I belong to the no relaxer then you're natural school of thought. All those rules just simply make no sense to me. I'd rather keep it simple. If you're not using relaxer and you've transitioned, then that's your natural texture.

How many times have I encountered a Negative Nelly? Probably more often when I first transitioned. The comments were more geared toward asking me why don't I cut my hair then anything else. It's interesting how YOUR hair can become a topic of someone else's conversation. I remember one time someone asked why I wear scarves on my head so much and am I religious. I simply said "Because I like them." I could've done a variety of things, which brings me to dealing with the natural "Nazis".

I've come up with a short list for battling the natural hair wars and triumphing over natural "Nazis".

When someone wants to put THEIR own opinion on what you do with YOUR hair you can choose ONE or MORE of the following responses:

#1. Smile and say "Thank you". Sometimes idiots just need love. As the saying goes, kill them with kindness.

#2. Look through them and don't say anything. The dummy will be wondering why the silence is so deafening.

#3. Look up at their hair and make a weird "what is that face". This will have them trying to think what is going on with their own head.

#4. Laugh and change the subject. The old blow off usually works and the clueless ninny won't realize that you just basically told her to have a seat without actually saying it.

#5. Say "And this matters because?" Look the person dead in the eye and act like you're waiting for a response. If they do respond interrupt and say "Dang, I gotta go do something. Buh bye!" Now they're standing there looking stupid or if they're on the phone all they hear is silence.

Readers, how do you deal with the Negative Nellies and their comments about YOUR hair?

World Class Hair Regimens: Building an International Regimen-Part 1

Hair regimens are so fun to build and even moreso when you incorporate hair tips from other cultures! Why are international hair regimens SO effective? They contain tried and true methods for hair growth. These hair growth aids have been used for centuries to grow and maintain voluminous locs.

When I was newly natural I became so interested in finding out how different cultures grew and maintained LONG, beautiful hair. From the lengthy black tresses of the Polynesian, Samoan, and Aborigine people to the gorgeous braids and locs of Carribean and African people, I wanted to know how various people successfully retained hair length. Was it a magical elixer? My curiosity led me to make connections and similarities amongst cultures.

#1. Gentle cleansing removes build up from the scalp and establishes an environment conducive to growth. The plain, old country folk of the U.S. know that there are many uses for apple cidar vinegar including cleansing the scalp. An apple cidar vinegar rinse also balances the PH level on the scalp. The Native American people used the Yucca plant for cleansing. Yucca is known for its natural ability to soap up. Also, yucca is famous for aiding in growth. Shea Moisture Yucca & Baobab soap provides gentle cleansing and aids in thickening the hair. It has a light sense and creamy white pearlescent color.

#2. Oiling the hair and scalp provides antibacterial protection and it seals in moisture. The Aryvedic oil treatments of India provide great benefits for sealing in moisture. Even if you can't afford the more exotic oils, coconut oil has amazing penetrating properties and benefits. Essential oil, such as tea tree has been used by the Aborigine for centures as an antifungal treatment. Jamaicans and Haitians both use castor oil for the hair and skin to keep it moisturized and free of problems. In fact, castor oil is known to produce healthy hair and heal skin conditions. For added benefit try Jamaican Black Castor oil with coconut or lavender oils. You might even blend your own oils to boost the benefits.

#3. The food of champions helps hair to grow long and strong. It is no secret that exotic diets provide the nutrition essential to health and gorgeous hair. Our hair is like a billboard for what is going on inside of our bodies. Exotic spices, consummable oils, fresh fruits and vegetables are excellent for establishing and maintaining good health. The delicious pineapple used in many dishes contains bromeide, a chemical that helps flush your system of excess water.Spicy foods, such as those that contain curry kick up flavor and helps to satiate you.

Readers, what parts of your regimen is borrowed from other cultures?

Lessons from the Hairball & Beyond!

Looking back on my hair journey I can truly say that I have learned from my challenges AND milestones. It is important to not only learn from your mistakes, but also your successes. Just the other day I was styling my hair and I noticed how it is longer and thicker. I also noticed that I don't have as many split ends as I used to have earlier in my hair journey. Finally, it occurred to me that I don't use as much product to style my hair even though it is longer. So, what changed?

Lesson #1. Consistency
I noticed that even if I skipped one day if moisture then my hair would not have a major setback. But, if I had a full week of consistent moisture and sealing, then by the next month my hair was in GREAT shape. This concept is similar to diet and exercise. If you have an off day then get back up and keep going.

Lesson #2. Perseverence
When I look back at my hair journey and even now as I continue on growing my hair out, I have persevered. If you have suffered from a scalp condition and/ or hair loss like me, then you'd understand that you must NEVER stop trying. The proof is in the curl. I kept trying to improve my hair and scalp. As a result, my scalp is significantly better and my hair is growing well.

Lesson #3. Responsibility
I've learned that my hair journey is MY responsibility and no one else's. Thanks to blogger, Golden Blaze at goldenblaze.blogspot.com, for reminding me to trust my own instincts. Products and techniques are not cookie cutter, so I must discover what works best on my hair. This means reading ingredients and researching to determine if it is something that I should invest in.

Lesson #4. Appreciation
I keep photos of my hair in different stages to celebrate my milestones. I can see a visual of when my hair reached past my nose; chin; and now to my chest. It is a reminder to be grateful for every inch of healthy hair on my head. I remember when I could barely get my hair into twists and there were bald spots that I hid with scarves. I'm SO appreciative of my hair becoming healthier and longer.

Lesson #5. Acceptance. So what if my hair doesn't curl the same way another natural's does! So what if my hair isn't as thick or long as someone else's. My hair type is a part of my DNA and it is what makes me unique. It makes me proud of my ancestry and the glorious function of my Afro textured hair. THIS hair is amazing and it allows me to go from curly fro to picked out fro, picked out fro to twists, twists to twist outs, twist outs to blowouts, blow outs to flat ironed. I mean, the possibilities are endless. I accept my unique and versatile hair.

Readers, what great lessons are you learning along the way in your hair journey?

Multi textured Hair Care

Last Sunday my dad shared a story about his cousin cutting his hair years ago and he exclaimed that she said "You have about three different textures on your head! I stared at my dad in awe and I realized that I got my multi textured hair from him. I have type 3c in the front of my head; 4b in the middle (crown area); 4a on the sides and some 3c in the back.What is multi textured hair? It is simply hair that has more than one texture or type. One section might have dry, thirsty coils whereas another section might have looser coils. Often, I have heard other naturals exclaim frustration with having more than one hair type.

Multi textured hair can be frustrating. Why? Because there are usually styling and moisture concerns with the section that has the tightest curl and coil. Usually, that section is harder to moisturize thus leaving it looking quite different from the rest of the hair. So, what's a multi head to do? I have simple solutions that I've used that may also help you.

#1. Focus on that drier, tighter haired section by applying additional product. Divide the hair and smooth on conditioner. Use your fingers to smooth to the tips of your hair.

#2. Gently detangle that section and avoid ripping out the hair. Use a wide tooth comb. Make sure your hair is sopping wet with conditioner before attempting to detangle. Detangle hair in sections.

#3. Make your own super hair booster mix with your favorite oils and aloe vera juice to add to your conditioner. Shake it up, apply, and enjoy the benefits of moisturized hair.

#4. Spritz your hair and give that section extra TLC. Be sure to spritz your hair twice a day preferably morning and evening to ensure that you keep dryness at bay.

#5. Try using a heavier creamy conditioner on sections that are drier. Put a little on your fingers and apply sparingly ONLY to the extra dry section.

#6. Use some heat when deep conditioning to ensure that the conditioner is penetrating your hair.

#7. Seal your hair with nourishing oils to lock in moisture. You can choose which oils are best for your hair. Heavier oils like castor and olive oils are especially good in the winter. Lighter oils like almond and grapeseed can be mixed with the heavier oils add benefits to the oil mixture.

Just remember to treat your hair gently and it will thank you. Yes, it's frustrating to have all these different textures competing on your head, but caring for all of them will make one HAPPY head. Instead of lamenting about your multi textured head, celebrate it's uniqueness!! Turn your wash days into spa days and treat your hair to a special session of TLC. You won't regret it!!

Readers, how do you cope with multi textured hair?

5 Common Pitfalls of Transitioning

Four years ago when I transitioned to natural, there wasn't as much information out there about transitioning as there is now. But, I still see transitioners who still have a lot of misconceptions about becoming natural.

Common Transitioning Pitfalls

Pitfall #1. Looking for THAT Magic Product. There is NO magic product that will grow your hair. Save your money and stick to the basics. Don't be fooled by gimmicks. Quality products don't have to cost a lot. Find what works for your hair.

Pitfall #2. Hair Type Obession. Your hair type is NOT as important as density and porosity. Knowing whether you have fine, coarse, and porosity levels can better assist you with product selection than hair type. For example, my mom whose hair is coarse and my niece whose hair is fine BOTH use Wen products. These products work well for them even though one is a 4c and the other is a 3a/b.

Pitfall #3. Coveting Another Natural's Hair.DON'T compare yourself to other naturals. Everyone's hair grows at different rates and the hair growth cycles are different. You may grow slower, the same as or faster than other naturals. Stop coveting their hair growth and texture. Be YOU!

Pitfall #4. Entertaining haters is like inviting a mosquito to a picnic. Listening to negative people will drive you insane. If you spend ALL your time and attention on them then you will be perpetually unhappy. STOP and focus on enjoying your natural hair journey.

Pitfall #5. Making YouTube THE authority on Haircare.YouTube videos are wonderful and provide information BUT you must also research for yourself. Because our hair is so unique, what works for some doesn't work for all. The beauty of the natural hair journey is that each one is tailor made for the individual.

Having so much information available can be both reassuring and confusing. It can be like going on a trip using GPS when a road has been closed or detoured. It's also like that awkward moment when you arrive to the party at the wrong address. You've gotta trust your instinct, because if you don't then it could be the difference between having a successful journey and one that is full of frustration and disappointment.

Are you a veteran natural, transitioner, or newbie? What lessons have you learned? What tips do you have for transitioners?