Multi textured Hair Care

Last Sunday my dad shared a story about his cousin cutting his hair years ago and he exclaimed that she said "You have about three different textures on your head! I stared at my dad in awe and I realized that I got my multi textured hair from him. I have type 3c in the front of my head; 4b in the middle (crown area); 4a on the sides and some 3c in the back.What is multi textured hair? It is simply hair that has more than one texture or type. One section might have dry, thirsty coils whereas another section might have looser coils. Often, I have heard other naturals exclaim frustration with having more than one hair type.

Multi textured hair can be frustrating. Why? Because there are usually styling and moisture concerns with the section that has the tightest curl and coil. Usually, that section is harder to moisturize thus leaving it looking quite different from the rest of the hair. So, what's a multi head to do? I have simple solutions that I've used that may also help you.

#1. Focus on that drier, tighter haired section by applying additional product. Divide the hair and smooth on conditioner. Use your fingers to smooth to the tips of your hair.

#2. Gently detangle that section and avoid ripping out the hair. Use a wide tooth comb. Make sure your hair is sopping wet with conditioner before attempting to detangle. Detangle hair in sections.

#3. Make your own super hair booster mix with your favorite oils and aloe vera juice to add to your conditioner. Shake it up, apply, and enjoy the benefits of moisturized hair.

#4. Spritz your hair and give that section extra TLC. Be sure to spritz your hair twice a day preferably morning and evening to ensure that you keep dryness at bay.

#5. Try using a heavier creamy conditioner on sections that are drier. Put a little on your fingers and apply sparingly ONLY to the extra dry section.

#6. Use some heat when deep conditioning to ensure that the conditioner is penetrating your hair.

#7. Seal your hair with nourishing oils to lock in moisture. You can choose which oils are best for your hair. Heavier oils like castor and olive oils are especially good in the winter. Lighter oils like almond and grapeseed can be mixed with the heavier oils add benefits to the oil mixture.

Just remember to treat your hair gently and it will thank you. Yes, it's frustrating to have all these different textures competing on your head, but caring for all of them will make one HAPPY head. Instead of lamenting about your multi textured head, celebrate it's uniqueness!! Turn your wash days into spa days and treat your hair to a special session of TLC. You won't regret it!!

Readers, how do you cope with multi textured hair?

When DIY Becomes S.T.U.P.I.D

I am ALL for learning about your hair and its needs. But, sometimes being a DIY (do it yourself) natural is detrimental. Yes, even professional cosmetologists can truly mess up people's hair through mishaps and irresponsible practices. However, there are times when you don't have the answer and turning to the YouTube and blog "experts" is just not going to cut it. While I have respect for the popular vloggers, mostly all of them do not have medical licenses or even a cosmetologist license. When do you need to step back and get help?

#1. When your scalp is red, badly flaking, and itching MOST days. If you are constantly scratching and seeing flakes the size of a small pet, then it it is time to get help. If you touch your scalp and it is tender. Then, it is time to seek help.

#2. When your hair is shedding more than normal and this has happened for more than a couple weeks. Abnormal shedding is a sure sign that something is going on either externally or internally. On average humans can shed up to 100 hairs a day. If you see a sizable amount of hair above and beyond your normal shed, then that is a red flag.

#3. If you can see through to your scalp without parting it and there is a spot as bald as a baby's butt, then you need to seek professional help. Alopecia is a medical condition that has to be evaluated by a medical professional. A professional can distinguish among the different types of alopecia to determine which type you may have. The different types require varying forms of treatment.

#4. If your scalp has bumps and/or is oozing or weaping fluid then you need to see a doctor. DO NOT pick or mess with areas that have bumps. Bursting a scalp bump can cause infection which can spread to other parts of your body. Putting a warm compress on it can help to draw out the fluid without causing other issues. Gently wipe the fluid away with a warm clean cloth then pat dry with a towel. Seek medical attention if you have this problem.

#5. If you are experiencing health conditions, such as sudden weight gain or weight loss and there is no specific reason, then please seek out help. These issues could signal a whole host of problems and then it's not just about hair--it's life or death.

The bottom line is while you may want to try to solve the problem all on your own, sometimes you have to go to a professional. By professional, I mean a licensed medical doctor. If you are a part of an HMO then your first point of contact would be to go to your primary care and then he or she would write you a referral to the dermatologist.

There are a lot of GREAT homeopathic remedies out there BUT you must be careful and know the side effects of them. Even natural ingredients can worsen your condition or even cause other problems. For example, did you know that rosemary oil should not be used by people with high blood pressure? Some extracts can even cause rashes or heart palpitations for some users. Seeking professional medical help for the initial diagnosis and plan for treatment is key.

Why should you take time to go to the doctor? Well, even though another may have the same symptoms, it may not be the same problem. Some scalp conditions are similar but only a trained professional knows how to diagnose and treat your specific problem. They are trained to analyze the scalp and ask the right probing questions to understand what is going on with your scalp.

Please heed my advice. Initially, I went to the dermatologist and I'm glad I did. I pursued answers about my condition and he provided me with a wealth of information and treatment. The prescription shampoos, ointment, and medication helped me on my journey. Although I have now turned to homeopathic treatment, I am grateful for the treatment I did receive from my medical doctor and dermatologist. Not going to the doctor when something is clearly wrong is like driving without your glasses when you need them to drive.

Readers, when do you determine it is time to go see a doctor for scalp related issues? Can you offer advice to those who are scared or can't afford to see a medical professional?

The Hair Growth Chronicles--Operation Grow It! (Day 1)

I'm still a lazy natural even with my new hair growth regimen. Why? Because I am not obsessing over my hair growth despite documenting my experiences. I wear my hair in protective styles during the week and wear it out on the weekends. While I want to grow my hair LONG, I'm not thinking about it until I have to share what it is that I've done. So, without further adieu.. Here's my day 1 observations.

Last night I mixed about a little more than an ounce of Pimento/Jamican Black Castor oil with a strip of Miconazole Nitrate (MN) cream. The oil contains a mixture of  Jamaican pimento oil, Jamaican black castor oil, grapeseed oil, peppermint oil, and eucalpytus oil. I used an old oil bottle that has a tip. I vigorously shook up the mixture. Then, I lightly sprayed my hair with my spritz mix (water, aloe vera juice, JBCO, jojoba oil, grapeseed oil, rosemary, lavendar, and tea tree oils. Next, I used the bottle tip to dab small amounts of the mixture on my scalp. Initially, I felt a small tingle that most likely was the result of the stimulating effects of the peppermint and eucalyptus oils. I wrapped my head up in a satin headwrap and went to bed. When I woke up my scalp felt refreshed. There is no feeling of itchiness or irritation.

I drank my cup of Yogi detox tea a few hours before bed. The tea tastes similar to ginger. It is bitter but it has a taste of spicy undertones. I think the taste will grow on me. The only effect the tea has had is that I have had to urinate more. This is due to the cleansing of my livers and kidneys.

I will be getting in my evening walk on the treadmill today. My exercise shoes have to be pulled out and I have to pull my treadmill down. I didn't use it for several months now because a few months ago I fainted while using it. I became fearful that this would happen again, so I stopped exercising on it. I used to run on the treadmill up to about 45 minutes to an hour a day. I've decided to power walk from now on and I may even get back to using my kettlebells. Working up a sweat, feeling good, and increasing my hair growth? That sounds like a win/win situation.

Before I forget I want to share my new refreshening spritz that I've been using for the past few weeks. My son has used it for his hair too and he shared his opinion with me. I asked him how he compared it to the store bought leave-in spritz I used (Taliah Waajid Protective Mist Bodifier) and this is what he stated. He feels that my homemade spritz "leaves my hair more moisturized longer". With his positive reviews and my great experiences, I feel the need to share my spritz recipe.

Rosemary/JBCO Moisturizing Spritz
Use 1 small (8-10 oz) spritz or spray bottle and fill it 2/3 way with water. Add about a tablespoon of aloe vera juice. Next, add about a tablespoon of Jamaican Black Castor oil. Then, a teaspoon of grapeseed oil and a teaspoon of jojoba oil. Add about 8 drops of rosemary oil, 5 drops of lavendar oil, 4 drops of tea tree oil, and 2 drops of peppermint oil. Shake vigorously. Your spritz is ready to use. Store the mixture in a cool, dry area.

Operation Grow it LONG!

I have always dreamt of having LONG hair. Blame it on fairy tales with princesses with LOTS of luscious hair. As a relaxed head, I often thought about my dark brown (almost black hair) swinging in the wind. Now as a bodacious natural, I want BIG fluffy hair. I'm not caught up on someone else's curls, I just want MY curls and I want LOTS of them.

So, what's a curly to do to get more growth? Well, I turned to researching more about my scalp condition, seborrhea dermatitis. This scalp condition is thought to be caused by a yeast or fungus overgrowth on the scalp. It is not the result of poor hygiene but rather, it can be exacerbated by a changing in seasons, stress, or certain cosmetic products. While digging deeper into this frustrating condition, I learned about some possible ways to manage and even almost eliminate it. That brings me to Operation Grow It Long!

I am committed to embarking on a renewed interest in fighting this scalp condition, getting good growth, and improving my overall health. Due to the nature of my problem, I'm attacking it from the nutritional diet and haircare aspects. I will be blogging about my experiences over the upcoming months to share my observations, celebations, and challenges. I'm doing this in hope of helping others with the same issue.

#1. Tea Detox.. For the next 30 days I will be drinking a tea detox which will benefit my internal functions. According to my research people with seborrhea dermatitis will benefit from a detox cleansing. I will be using the Yogi Detox tea which contains many natural ingredients, including clove and burdock root. The theory behind detoxing is that it will cleanse the body of any toxics that contribute to the overgrowth of yeast.

#2. Exercise... I will walk on my treadmill at least 3 times a week for 30 minutes. I hope to increase my walking to most days of the week. But, I know I must start somewhere so I will start slow. Studies show that people who exercise are healthier and their bodies function more efficiently. Also, this will help to increase my circulation.

#3. Use MN mixture on scalp... For this one I did A LOT of research and prayed about it. For those of you who don't know miconazole nitrate (MN) is the active ingredient in Monistat 7. Yes, the vaginal cream. I know I will probably get some flack for using this on my scalp BUT my scalp condition is due to an overgrowth of YEAST. There are MANY testimonials on YouTube and on various blogs about how using the cream diluted with oils or water resulted in at least double the growth. I will be mixing a small amount to start with Jamican Black Castor/Pimento Oil. Diluting a small amount of the MN with oil will eliminate any side effects. According to my research some people have gotten side effects, such as redness and tenderness at the application site; ringing the ears; and increased shedding. Mostly, this is due to applying MN straight from the tube to the scalp. For more info on Monistat for hair growth visit http://suicidesevemonistat.blogspot.com/2011/03/growing-your-hair-using-monistat.html?m=1.

#4. Increase my produce (fruits and veggies) intake and decrease fatty foods and sugars. Unfortunately, I have some bad eating habits. While I drink A LOT of water daily, I have somewhat of a sweet tooth. Just the other week my son and I made some red velvet cupcakes. I devoured them to the point where my son complained that I ate more than my share. I think out of all things in my new challenge, this one will be the most difficult for me. Also, I have an obsession with bread and starch. I LOVE bread products and anything made with dough like pizza. I will be working on finding some healthy alternatives.

This is my plan to increase my hair growth and become healthier. As I've said, I did a lot of research to ensure that my plan was tailor fit for MY needs. I'm not advocating that anyone follow my lead. I have suffered with this scalp condition for years. I've gone to the dermatologist for years and then, I realized that what I was being prescribed dealt with my symptoms but I was not being healed. I go forth in this journey with excitement and anticipation.

Have you decided to change anything in your hair regimen? If so, why ? What are your plans?

Rotating Shampoos for Effectiveness

If you're like me and you have a special scalp condition or you have a tempermental scalp, then you may want to consider rotating shampoos. I got the idea from my dermatologist when he presented me with a plan to use medicated shampoos and switch every 2-3 weeks. Each shampoo contained a different beneficial ingredients for my scalp condition. The reasoning behind the shampoo rotation was to keep my scalp from getting too used to the shampoos and then, they lose their effectiveness. However, my main reason for shampoo rotation is to suit my hair's needs.

How do you rotate shampoos? Well, you can either set a schedule for rotation or allow your scalp to dictate it. Whatever schedule you choose, you will need to keep track of which shampoos you use for that particular week.

To get started rotating shampoos you will need a clarifying, itchy scalp relief, moisturizing, and light protein shampoos. If you are using a shampoo bottle then you can label them 1,2, 3, and 4. If you are a shampoo bar user like me then you can separate your bars and label the ziploc bags.

Your clarifying week will be to clean your scalp of any build up. Clarifying is important because if product continues to gather on your scalp then you can risk scalp irritation, fungus, and even hair loss. Clarifying shampoos are usually clear and lighter than other shampoos. They will leave your hair feeling squeaky clean. I use Chagrin Valley Aryvedic Herb shampoo bar to clarify.

During my itchy scalp weeks I choose shampoos that have stimulating ingredients such as tea tree, peppermint, and rosemary oils. Lathering and leaving the itchy scalp shampoo on my scalp for several minutes is very soothing before rinsing it out. Giovanni Triple Tea Tree Treat shampoo gives a great tingle and helps with itchy scalp. Cafe Moreno, Rosemary Mint, and Neem and Tea Tree Hair/Body bars are also excellent for getting rid of the itchies.

If my hair feels extra crispy, then I reach for an extra moisturizing shampoo. These shampoos are creamy and thicker than regular shampoos. You can turn the bottle upside down and it pours slowly out. Extra moisturizing shampoo bars include coconut  milk, castor, and olive oils. My favorite moisturizing Chagrin Valley shampoo bars include Olive Babassu and Butter Conditioner bars. My favorite moisturizing Shampoo is Shea Moisture Curl & Shine Coconut Hibiscus Shampoo.

On weeks that I need more protein then I am sure to add shampoos that contain vegetable protein. One of my favorite shampoos is Shea Moisture Yucca & Aloe thickening shampoo. In addition to making my hair feel stronger, it also gives my hair more volume. It is especially formulated for fine and thin hair.

Disclaimer: I am not against co-washing but it is not a method that I chose because of my scalp condition. People with special scalp conditions, such as seborrhea dermatitis, eczema, and psorasis will need to shampoo to cleanse the scalp of dandruff flakes.

The New Lazy Method to Hair Growth

I am always in awe of naturals, who have grown their hair to long lengths without a bunch of gimmicks or seemingly hard work. I have several long haired naturals in my family and I've always asked them the burning question "how do you grow your hair so LONG?" Most of the time they will shrug their shoulders and give that cursatory "I just wash my hair and condition it" response. Hah! I thought. Well, I began to watch them more closely. Not satisfied with observing my long haired relatives (after all, we share some of the same genes), I observed other long haired naturals. What I found common in their practices, helped me to become a part of the lazy naturals club.

#1. Minimize your products. The majority of long haired naturals don't use a million and one different products. In fact, they mostly have just a minimal amount of staple products that they use. Piling a bunch of product on top of product all the time, is just not what I see long haired naturals doing. This is not to say that you shouldn't try new products. No, I'm saying don't go overboard putting a bunch of them in your head at one time then waiting to cleanse your hair forever. Some naturals can shampoo once a month but at some point you have to cleanse to keep your hair follicles from choking on all the gunk in your hair.

#2. Style your hair then keep your hands out of it for the rest of the day. Notice I said style but not protective style. Why? Because I've seen long haired naturals who wear their hair out most of the time. My niece wears her hair down and she has mid back length hair (mbl). There are times when some long haired naturals protective style, but it's up to the individual. I work in an extremely hot environment, so I protective style 99% of the time because having my hair out makes me feel like I am going to pass out. Just make sure you're not constantly tugging, pulling, and picking at your hair.

#3. Balance your moisture and protein. I know some people say they are protein sensitive, but avoiding all protein is not a good idea. Why? Because hair is mostly made up of keratin, which is a protein. Using light proteins can work well for those who feel they are protein sensitive. Long haired naturals know when they need to add moisture or protein back into their hair. Also, I notice a lot of them co wash. Now I can't do co washing, because of my scalp condition, but I use little shampoo to a greater amount of conditioner. This is like my own modified co wash. I use conditioner that has light protein in it, so I get the best of both worlds.

#4. Eat, drink, and be merry! I see a lot of long haired naturals drink water and other healthy drinks, such as natural juices and smoothies. Many of them eat well. After all, the lack of nutrients can rob your hair, skin, and nails resulting in brittle, breaking, and severe shedding. Finally, keeping your stress levels low is beneficial as stress affects hair fall. In other words, try to be as happy as you can!

#5. Avoid chasing after EVERY gimmick! I was SO guilty of doing this that my wallet was screaming in agony over all the money I had spent on gimmick after gimmick. The new growth shampoo, conditioner, vitamin, and oil is always tempting to buy. Now, don't get me wrong. I use an oil called Wild Growth Hair Oil, but I'm not sitting here thinking that it's my sole source of growth aid. It has great ingredients, but I know that it takes more than just a miracle product to encourage growth. Long haired naturals use simple ingredients and their hair grows, and grows, and grows. Whether you use petroletum or opt for more natural products, the key is consistency and good hair practices.

I haven't been length checking my hair in a while and at this point, I'm subscribing to the "lazy" naturals method. I've automated my hair regimen to the point where I'm not overly concerned with length. I want my hair to grow, but I'm putting my overall health first. After all, healthy on the inside means that it will also reflect on the outside. While I enjoy hair forums, they also contributed to me doing too much. I would see a new product or method and feel the need to try it. Don't get me wrong, hair forums are an awesome source of information and if you're newly natural then it can provide a great support system.

Now, this is my new commitment to laziness. What's yours?

Part 2-My Hair Journey: How the Bald Spots Disappeared and My Self Esteem Soared

After suffering through one of the WORST natural hair salon experiences, I resolved to learn more about my scalp condition and learn how to care for my hair. Desperate for information, how to's, and tips I stumbled onto the natural hair community on YouTube. I developed almost an obsession for learning through product reviews, tutorials, and hair journeys. Among my favorite YouTubers were CurlyChronicles, African Export, and Kimmaytube. They have type 4 hair and it is well preserved. Their videos are pretty informative and helpful. Also, I learned a lot about DIY (do it yourself) recipes for spritzes, hair butters, and oil mixtures.

My hair journey about 2 yrs ago took a turn for the better as I learned that my hair thrives on natural ingredients. After using products that had awesome ingredients, such as shea butter, aloe vera, castor oil, and mango butter, I saw my hair change from brittle to breaking to moisturized and thriving. I could not believe that my hair was the same hair that was falling out horribly.

I remember giving up on the products that I typically found in the beauty supply store. All of the greases, pomades, and moisturizers promising the softest hair DIDN'T work for me. Frustrated, I gave up and just continued to work on mixing my own hair butters and moisturizers. While the moisturizers were fun to make; I found that I could never get my mixes quite right. I decided to go into the health store and there I discovered TheraNeem shampoo and conditioner by Organix South. Although it was more expansive then what I was used to, I bought it. I felt relief from my itching scalp and I continued to use it for several months. But, after a while the shampoo's effectiveness began to wear off. It was just as my doctor had said and I remembered that I had to rotate shampoos according to his instructions.

One day while walking through Target I saw a display on the outside of the aisle featuring a new hair product called Shea Moisture. Intrigued I went over and started reading the story of the creators, who now used their grandmother's shea butter preparations. I knew that raw shea butter in my hair worked really well. So, I began picking up the products reading their ingredients. I was impressed, but I wasn't willing to buy up a whole bunch of products, so I settled on the Coconut & Hibiscus Hair Milk. After using it for the first time, I was instantly hooked.

Over the next few months I tried out different Shea Moisture products including the Restorative shampoo, deep treatment mask, and moisturizer. I quickly learned that my hair did not like the raw shea butter line. So, I went back to the Coconut & Hibiscus line trying out the shampoo and curl enhancing smoothie. Instant love!! But, I still wanted something to calm my itchy scalp and that's when I discovered the Black soap line. The Purification Masque shrank the bumps on my scalp and took away the flakes. The shampoo was awesome and the conditioner worked well.

These last 2 yrs my knowledge and understanding of my hair has grown and changed. Initially, I did not know that my hair was curly and coily. I only knew the thick, thirsty kinks that resulted from my hair needing a touch up. Even as a child I had dry hair that poofed into a dry afro once my braids or plaits were taken out. My fear of water had disappeared and I run to water using it in my spritz to revive thirsty curls. Shea, mango, and cocoa butters in natural products provide a good sealant. Oils, such as Jamaican Black Castor, grapeseed, and jojoba are among my staples. I use store brought natural products along with my occasional mixtures of oils and butters.  Shampoo bars have replaced regular shampoo and dye free conditioners and stylers keep my hair moisturized.

What is the point of sharing my hair journey? I want to encourage ladies, who have balding, shedding, and breaking hair to not give up! Don't get caught up in coveting thick, luxious hair. It took my 4 yrs being natural to figure out my hair. Work with the hair you have in order to get the hair you want.

Looking back on your hair journey what do you now know that you wish you knew when you first started? What are your hair milestones.